Contents:
- What Are Pin Curls and Why They Matter
- Understanding Hair Structure Before You Start
- Essential Tools and Cost Breakdown
- The Step-by-Step Process: How to Pin Curl Hair
- Preparation
- Creating Individual Pin Curls
- Securing the Curl
- Setting and Drying: Patience Yields Results
- Releasing and Styling the Curls
- Troubleshooting Common Pin Curl Problems
- Curls That Won’t Hold
- Uneven Curl Definition
- Breakage or Hair Damage
- Slipping Curls
- Sustainability and Eco-Conscious Styling
- Adapting Pin Curls for Different Hair Types
- Fine or Thin Hair
- Thick or Coarse Hair
- Textured or Curly Hair
- Previously Coloured or Damaged Hair
- Making Pin Curls Last Longer
- Frequently Asked Questions
- How long should I keep pin curls in my hair?
- Can I sleep in pin curls?
- What setting products work best?
- Will pin curls damage my hair?
- How often can I pin curl my hair?
- Can I pin curl very short hair?
- Moving Forward with Your Pin Curl Practice
Pin curls have maintained remarkable staying power in the styling world. A 2024 survey by hair professionals found that over 68% of salons still offer pin curl services, despite the prevalence of modern styling tools. This longevity speaks to a fundamental truth: when executed correctly, pin curls deliver results that digital tools struggle to replicate.
What Are Pin Curls and Why They Matter
Pin curls represent a mechanical method of creating waves and curls through tension and heat retention. Unlike heated tools that chemically alter the hair structure temporarily, pin curls work with your hair’s natural elasticity and plasticity—the ability to temporarily hold new shapes when moisturised and set.
The science is straightforward. Hair contains hydrogen bonds that determine its shape. When hair is damp, these bonds become flexible. Wrapping the hair tightly around a cylinder—whether your finger or a roller—and allowing it to dry in that position causes the hydrogen bonds to reform in the new shape. Remove the pin, and the curl remains.
What makes this approach valuable is its gentleness. There’s no heat damage, no chemical processing, and minimal mechanical stress compared to blow-dryers or heated curling irons. For those with fragile, fine, or previously damaged hair, pin curls can be transformative.
Understanding Hair Structure Before You Start
Successful pin curls begin with understanding your specific hair type. Hair thickness varies dramatically. Fine hair (60–80 microns in diameter) requires smaller pin curls and shorter setting times, typically 4–6 hours. Medium hair (80–100 microns) works well with standard sizing and 6–8 hours of setting time. Coarse hair (100+ microns) can handle larger curls and may need 8–12 hours to fully set.
Porosity also matters significantly. Low-porosity hair has a tight cuticle layer and resists moisture absorption; it needs slightly longer setting times and may benefit from a light pre-curl primer. High-porosity hair absorbs moisture readily and sets faster—often in 4–5 hours. You can test porosity by placing a clean strand in water: it sinks quickly if high-porosity, floats if low-porosity.
Elasticity determines how well curls hold. Stretch a damp strand; it should return to its original length. If it snaps, the hair is compromised and needs conditioning before you pin curl. Healthy hair demonstrates excellent elasticity and will hold curls reliably.
Essential Tools and Cost Breakdown
Pin curling requires minimal investment compared to professional salon treatments. Here’s what you’ll actually need and realistic costs in GBP:
- Kirby grips or bobby pins (80–100 for full head): £3–£6 for a quality pack. Avoid cheap alternatives that slip or snag hair.
- Hair clips or sectioning clips: £4–£8 for a set of 6–8. These hold unstyled sections while you work.
- Fine-tooth comb: £2–£4. Essential for smooth, tension-free curls.
- Spray bottle for moisture: £1–£3. You can repurpose an old one.
- Setting lotion or mousse (optional but recommended): £5–£12 per bottle. A single bottle lasts 15–20 applications.
- Silk or satin pillowcase (optional, for sleep-in curls): £10–£20. Prevents frizz and extends curl life.
Total initial investment: £25–£50. A single salon pin curl session costs £35–£60 for a full head, so you’ll recoup costs after just one application at home.
The Step-by-Step Process: How to Pin Curl Hair
Preparation
Start with freshly shampooed hair or second-day hair that’s been lightly damped with a spray bottle. Freshly washed hair is ideal because it’s clean and free of product buildup. Dry your hair to approximately 70% dry—it should feel damp but not dripping. Hair that’s too wet takes forever to set; hair that’s too dry won’t hold shape.
Apply a setting lotion or volumising mousse through the lengths. These products aren’t essential, but they significantly improve curl longevity. Apply sparingly; too much product weighs hair down and can cause slipping.
Divide your hair into sections using clips. For full-head curls, create four quadrants: two on top (separated by a centre or side part) and two lower sections at the nape. For partial curls, you can work with just the desired sections.
Creating Individual Pin Curls
Take a section of hair approximately 2.5–5 cm wide and 5 cm deep. The exact size depends on your hair thickness and desired curl size. Start near the roots and begin rolling the hair around your finger (or index and middle finger for larger curls). Roll upward and away from the scalp, keeping tension even throughout.
Once rolled, you have two options. The closed curl method involves rolling the hair until the end sits against the scalp, then securing with a kirby grip that curves over the top of the curl. This creates tighter, more defined curls ideal for waves or vintage styles. The open curl method involves rolling less tightly and pinning so the curl sits slightly away from the scalp; this produces softer, more relaxed waves.
The tension you apply is critical. It should feel snug but not painful—no pulling at the scalp. Excessive tension can cause breakage and headaches; insufficient tension means the curl won’t hold properly.
Securing the Curl
Once the curl is rolled, position the kirby grip horizontally across the base, then press down firmly so it locks the curl in place. A properly secured curl shouldn’t move when you gently tug it. Place a second grip perpendicular to the first if the curl is large or your hair is thick.
Work methodically through each section. A full head typically requires 15–25 curls depending on density and curl size.
Setting and Drying: Patience Yields Results
Once all curls are pinned, you have three drying options:
Air drying: This is the gentlest but slowest method, requiring 12–24 hours. Simply leave the pins in overnight or throughout the day. This works best if you have time and aren’t in a hurry. Many people swear by overnight air drying for the most natural, long-lasting results.
Blow-dryer with diffuser: Hold a diffuser attachment 10–15 cm from the scalp and dry on a medium heat setting for 20–30 minutes. Keep the dryer moving to avoid concentrating heat on one area. This method reduces drying time to 45 minutes to 1 hour while minimising heat damage.
Hooded hair dryer: If you have access to one (common in salons and some home setups), sit under one at medium heat for 45 minutes to 1.5 hours. This evenly distributes gentle heat and is ideal for thick or dense hair.
Regardless of method, never rush the drying phase. Incomplete drying means the hydrogen bonds haven’t fully reset, and your curls will relax as soon as the hair becomes damp again—defeating the purpose entirely.
Releasing and Styling the Curls
Once dry, remove the kirby grips carefully. Grip the base of each curl lightly and pull the pin straight out. Allow the curl to cool for 2–3 minutes before touching it; this helps the curl fully set in its new shape. Hot curls are still malleable and can relax.
Using your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, gently separate the curls to your desired effect. For tighter waves, barely separate them. For loose waves, comb through more generously. Avoid brushing harshly, which disrupts the curl structure.
A light hairspray applied once curls are styled will extend longevity. Use a flexible-hold formula rather than maximum-hold products, which can feel stiff and unnatural.
Troubleshooting Common Pin Curl Problems
Curls That Won’t Hold
This typically indicates insufficient drying time or low hair elasticity. Ensure your hair dries completely—damp curls will relax. If drying time isn’t the issue, condition your hair for 1–2 weeks before trying again. Weak curls indicate compromised elasticity, which conditioning improves.
Uneven Curl Definition
This usually results from inconsistent tension during rolling or from working with dry sections. Maintain consistent tension throughout rolling, and re-dampen any sections that dried before pinning.
Breakage or Hair Damage
Excessive tension during rolling is the culprit. Reduce tension and ensure grips aren’t pinching hair painfully. Never pin curl if your hair shows obvious damage, breakage, or brittleness.
Slipping Curls
Kirby grips that don’t hold indicate either low-quality pins, overly oily hair, or inadequate drying. Use quality grips, apply setting lotion (not conditioner or oil), and ensure complete drying before removal.
Sustainability and Eco-Conscious Styling
Pin curling aligns naturally with sustainable beauty practices. Unlike heated tools that require electricity for every use, pin curling uses negligible energy (and none if you air-dry). The grips and combs last for years with basic care, eliminating the need for frequent replacement.
Setting lotions and mousses vary in sustainability. Look for brands using biodegradable formulas and recyclable packaging. Some people use DIY alternatives: diluted aloe vera gel or flaxseed gel (made by simmering flaxseeds) provide natural setting properties without synthetic chemicals. A simple flaxseed gel costs under £2 to make at home and lasts 2–3 weeks refrigerated.
By adopting pin curls regularly, you reduce your carbon footprint compared to daily blow-dryer or heat styling. Over a year, the energy savings are measurable, especially for those with long or thick hair.
Adapting Pin Curls for Different Hair Types
Fine or Thin Hair
Use smaller curls (2–3 cm sections) to create the illusion of volume without weighing hair down. Set for 4–6 hours only; over-setting can cause permanent volume loss. Avoid heavy setting lotions; use lightweight mousse instead.
Thick or Coarse Hair
Larger curls (4–5 cm sections) work better visually and are easier to control. Set for 10–12 hours or use gentle heat to accelerate drying. Don’t shy away from more setting product; thick hair needs it for hold.
Textured or Curly Hair
Pin curling adds definition to natural curls rather than creating new texture. Work with wet curls and allow at least 8 hours of setting time. Use a lightweight, curl-defining product to enhance natural pattern.
Previously Coloured or Damaged Hair
Use extra-gentle tension and avoid extended setting times (limit to 6–8 hours maximum). Condition thoroughly before attempting pin curls. Skip chemical setting products and rely on air drying if possible.
Making Pin Curls Last Longer
Once styled, pin curls typically last 2–5 days depending on hair type, humidity, and how much you disturb them. Extend longevity by sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase, which reduces friction and frizz. A silk bonnet or scarf also works well.
Avoid excessive touching or brushing between styling sessions. When curls begin to relax slightly (around day 3–4), refresh them by lightly misting with water and allowing them to air dry, or briefly using a diffuser dryer.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long should I keep pin curls in my hair?
Minimum 6 hours for fine hair, 8–10 hours for medium hair, and 10–12 hours for thick hair. Longer is always better; overnight (12+ hours) produces the most durable curls. Never remove pins before hair is completely dry.
Can I sleep in pin curls?
Yes, and many people find overnight pinning produces the best results. Ensure curls are secured firmly so they don’t slip during movement. Use a silk pillowcase to minimise frizz. Some curls may feel uncomfortable initially, but most people adjust within a night or two.
What setting products work best?
Volumising mousse works universally well and is suitable for most hair types. Setting lotions are slightly heavier. For a DIY option, make flaxseed gel: simmer 2 tablespoons of flaxseeds in 250 ml of water for 10 minutes, strain, cool, and use. This costs pennies and works surprisingly well.
Will pin curls damage my hair?
No, when done correctly. Pin curling applies no heat and minimal mechanical stress compared to blow-dryers or heated styling tools. The key is using consistent, moderate tension and ensuring hair is healthy before starting. Over-tight pinning or pulling can cause temporary discomfort but won’t permanently damage healthy hair.
How often can I pin curl my hair?
As frequently as you wish. Unlike heat styling or chemical treatments, pin curling doesn’t accumulate damage. You can pin curl daily if desired, though spacing sessions 1–2 days apart allows hair to recover its natural moisture balance naturally.
Can I pin curl very short hair?
Yes, but results are best with hair at least 5 cm long. Very short hair (under 2.5 cm) struggles to hold shape. For pixie cuts or very short styles, focus on creating gentle waves rather than defined curls, using smaller sections and lighter tension.
Moving Forward with Your Pin Curl Practice
Mastering pin curls requires patience and experimentation. Your first attempt might produce uneven results—that’s entirely normal. Most people achieve genuinely impressive curls by their third or fourth session. Keep notes on what works: curl size, setting time, product type, and drying method. This personalised data will guide you toward your signature pin curl style.
The technique rewards practice. Hair behaves differently in various seasons, humidity levels, and life stages. What works perfectly in winter might need adjustment in summer. Building this adaptive skill is rewarding and cost-effective, delivering salon-quality results for minimal ongoing expense.
Start with a half-head of curls rather than committing to a full head. This reduces time investment and lets you refine technique before scaling up. As confidence builds, you’ll develop the consistent tension, rolling speed, and problem-solving instincts that separate basic pin curls from truly exceptional ones.
